prague in 72 hours: day three
You made it to day three! I know the first days really racked up the steps and sights, so you're probably going to be a little tired. Today's itinerary is a lot more relaxed and features some of the best green spaces in Prague. So feel free to relax, go for a stroll, or just lay in the grass and enjoy the sunshine. You can't go wrong in the two parks and you might just meet some really great people along the way.
John Lennon Wall
This is your morning Instagram hotspot. It's exactly what it sounds like: a wall covered in graffiti in memory of John Lennon. Bring a permanent marker or small container of paint so you can leave your mark. The wall gets busier and busier as the day goes on, so it's definitely best to check it out early in your day so you have unencumbered access to all the best spots on the wall. I recommend going before breakfast, because it will be empty
. There's something really powerful about this stretch of wall that I can't describe and you have to be there to see it. This is a 15 minute stop that is a do not miss.
Breakfast: Your Turn!
Find a Kavarna, or coffeehouse, somewhere in the Malá Strana neighborhood, which is around the Lennon Wall. There are quite a few to choose from, and between the high standards for Czech coffee and the incredible traditional pastries, you really can't go wrong. Let me know where you go! I'm always down for new places.
This is one of the most popular parks in the city. It's accessible by foot or by cable car (I recommend the cable car) and works its way up the entire hill. The cable car is included in a normal transportation pass, so definitely take advantage of it. It's really cool and WAY easier than walking uphill for a mile. There's a ton to do when you get up to the top of the hill. There's a tower you can go to the top of for awesome aerial views. There are beautiful gardens, hiking trails, chapels and often live music. You can easily while the day away up there and slowly work your way down to the town. This is also a great place to go if you're traveling with children because there's plenty of space for them to run around and be kids.
Okay, so it's going to sound ridiculous to suggest you go to a chain restaurant for lunch, but just trust me on this. Baguettrie Boulevard makes the best sandwich you will ever have. My favorite is the tomato mozzarella, and a close second is the smoked salmon. Get a sandwich, an iced tea and a cone of patatas (fancy french fries) and eat outside in a park of your choice. Just remember that you cannot eat on public transportation or they will kick you off the train, tram or bus. They are all over the city so just ask someone where the nearest one is and then keep your eyes open for the yellow awnings. You won't be sorry.
Vyšehrad is the hidden gem and sincerely my favorite place in the whole city. I really can't talk about it enough. It's kind of a hike to get out there (it's on the red line of the metro, which I highly recommend you take), but it's a spectacular place to get away from the tourist center and still do something special. It's an old fortress that's on the bend of the Vltava. Definitely go to the visitors center for a map of the whole complex so you don't miss anything. There are places with scenic overlooks all around the perimeter so you can get fresh perspectives on Prague. The best place in this whole fortress is the Basilica Minor of Peter and Paul. You have to pay to get in, but the fee is minor (see what I did there?) and helps the nuns maintain the facility. It's quiet, stunning, and nearly empty most of the time I am there.
Also: There is a man who has a soft serve ice cream machine across from the Basilica Minor. It's delicious, so get a cone for your stroll, especially if it's pistachio.
Since you're already on the red line, go a bit farther to the Florenc stop and go to Pivovarsky Klub for dinner. It has the largest selection of Czech and imported beers in the city and the food is great. They have great fish and chicken schnitzel and-- you guessed it-- amazing potatoes in every single way imaginable. Request a table in the basement so you can stick around, enjoy a beer (or have everyone in your group get a different one so you can taste a few) and experience the atmosphere. It's also off the beaten path so you're away from the super touristy spots and are more likely to have an authentic experience. My friends and I were the only non-czechs in the entire place when we would go.
If you're up for it, head back to old town and go to the cocktail bar in the basement of Hotel U Prince, which is in Old Town Square. It's a huge craft cocktail menu and they have the best mixologists in the country. It's a super cool and in the cellar of an old hotel (there are lots of places like this, as the city is connected with a series of underground tunnels that used to be on street level, but this one is the best). You may have to make a reservation as it fills up quickly. After you've had your drink, go for a walk in the square at night because it's so beautiful.
So there you have it folks, an entire city crammed into three days. Obviously you can't get the whole picture in such a short time, but these are the highlights. I hope it makes you fall in love with Prague as much as I have. Do you have any favorite haunts around the city? I want to hear about them, so feel free to reach out!